Wristy business? Luxury watch market favors the mid-tier

Wristy business? Luxury watch market favors the mid-tier
The secondary market for prestige timepieces shows those in the mid-tier of prices are outperforming the higher end.
JUL 28, 2023
By  Bloomberg

Some mid-tier priced luxury watches including models by Omega and Cartier outperformed as prices for the most popular and higher-end Rolex, Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet models kept falling on the secondary market.

The Bloomberg Subdial Watch Index fell 1.4% in a month and is now down 16% over the past year. The index tracks the 50 most traded watches on the secondary market by value and consists mainly of Rolex, Patek and AP models. Higher interest rates, shaky economic growth and the collapse of cryptocurrency values have combined to push up the supply of used luxury timepieces and push down prices after a surge in 2021. 

Yet some mid-priced watches from brands also including TAG Heuer and Tudor are bucking the trend, according to data from Subdial, a UK-based used watch dealer and trading platform. 

The value of a group of five selected watches has gained 17% in a year. The price rise shows collectors and enthusiasts are looking for rare undervalued timepieces and, in some cases, smaller-sized watches.

The 36-millimeter diameter Omega Seamaster dive watch now fetches about $5,253. Subdial co-founder Christy Davis said the model is gaining because it captures both the trend toward more discreet luxury goods and smaller sizes.

The Santos Galbee, much smaller than the average watch at just 28 millimeters and trading at about $5,060, also speaks to the trend and is part of the rise in popularity of so-called “neo-vintage” watches from the 1990s, he said. 

The top performing watch in the Bloomberg Subdial Watch Index in the past 30 days is also a smaller watch. The Rolex Datejust 36 outperformed other models made by Switzerland’s largest watch brand, gaining about 3.4% in a month and is trading at around $10,200.

The worst performer is the Rolex Daytona in steel and gold, which has declined about 7% to about $18,150. 

Analysts at Morgan Stanley published a report earlier this week showing that while the most in-demand watches from Rolex, Patek and AP continue to trade above retail on the secondary market, prices are expected to continue falling in the third quarter due to elevated supply levels. 

This story was produced with the assistance of Bloomberg Automation.

Latest News

The 2025 InvestmentNews Awards Excellence Awardees revealed
The 2025 InvestmentNews Awards Excellence Awardees revealed

From outstanding individuals to innovative organizations, find out who made the final shortlist for top honors at the IN awards, now in its second year.

Top RIA Cresset warns of 'inevitable' recession amid tariff uncertainty
Top RIA Cresset warns of 'inevitable' recession amid tariff uncertainty

Cresset's Susie Cranston is expecting an economic recession, but says her $65 billion RIA sees "great opportunity" to keep investing in a down market.

Edward Jones joins the crowd to sell more alternative investments
Edward Jones joins the crowd to sell more alternative investments

“There’s a big pull to alternative investments right now because of volatility of the stock market,” Kevin Gannon, CEO of Robert A. Stanger & Co., said.

Record RIA M&A activity marks strong start to 2025
Record RIA M&A activity marks strong start to 2025

Sellers shift focus: It's not about succession anymore.

IB+ Data Hub offers strategic edge for U.S. wealth advisors and RIAs advising business clients
IB+ Data Hub offers strategic edge for U.S. wealth advisors and RIAs advising business clients

Platform being adopted by independent-minded advisors who see insurance as a core pillar of their business.

SPONSORED Compliance in real time: Technology's expanding role in RIA oversight

RIAs face rising regulatory pressure in 2025. Forward-looking firms are responding with embedded technology, not more paperwork.

SPONSORED Advisory firms confront crossroads amid historic wealth transfer

As inheritances are set to reshape client portfolios and next-gen heirs demand digital-first experiences, firms are retooling their wealth tech stacks and succession models in real time.